Samsung DW80B6060US Dishwasher Lost Power Mid-Cycle — No Lights

Question

My Samsung dishwasher DW80B6060US just lost all power—no lights at all—what could cause this?

AskHow · Accepted Answer

Customer: My Samsung dishwasher DW80B6060US just lost all power—no lights at all—what could cause this?

Appliance Expert: Hi, I’m Mike, your appliance troubleshooting expert—did the dishwasher’s outlet/circuit lose power (tripped breaker or GFCI), or did it go dark mid‑cycle while running?

Customer: It went dark mid-cycle last night, other outlets seem fine and the breaker didn’t trip as far as I can tell.

Appliance Expert: Is it on a GFCI/AFCI circuit or tied to any nearby GFCI outlet that might have tripped?

Customer: I don’t think so—it’s hardwired under the sink.

Appliance Expert: Did you notice any burning smell, heat at the under‑sink junction box, or water around the base when it died?

Customer: No smell and no water—just stopped and the panel’s blank.

Appliance Expert: How old is the unit, and did you have any recent power surges or outages?

Customer: About a year old, and no outages that I know of.

Appliance Expert: Based on it dying mid‑cycle with a blank panel and no signs of a tripped breaker, the most likely causes are: 1) a failed or heat-damaged under‑sink power connection in the dishwasher’s junction box (loose wire nuts commonly burn open under load), 2) a failed incoming power/noise filter assembly inside the base, 3) a blown internal fuse or failed **main control board (PCB)** power supply, or 4) less likely, a shorted **UI harness/control panel** or a defective **door latch switch** (door switch issues usually don’t kill all lights). Because these involve live 120 V wiring, there’s a shock and fire hazard—avoid opening electrical boxes or panels unless power is safely isolated by a professional. Since you’re renting and it’s ~1 year old, contact your landlord/property manager first; it may still be within Samsung’s standard warranty. A technician would verify line voltage at the dishwasher’s junction box, inspect for heat‑damaged connectors, and test the noise filter, door latch, and main PCB for power and continuity, then replace the failed component. If you want, I can walk you through safe, step‑by‑step checks you can do without tools, or outline DIY steps if you’re comfortable—would you like that?

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