Frigidaire grss2652af fridge is about 3 years old and the ice maker has stopped making ice.
Hi, I’m Mike, an appliance troubleshooting tech—thanks for the details and model number.
When the ice maker stopped working, did it quit suddenly with a full bin already made, or did you first notice the cubes getting smaller/less frequent over time?
It seemed to slow down first and the ice cubes got less and less until it just stopped. .
Thanks, that’s helpful—have you noticed any other issues like warmer freezer temps, frost buildup, or low water pressure at the dispenser?
Freezer still feels cold and I do not see any heavy frost buildup. The water dispenser pressure seems normal and steady.
Good to know—when you look at the ice maker itself, do you see any cubes stuck in the mold or visible ice blockage around the fill area or chute?
I do not see any cubes stuck and the mold area looks empty and dry. I also do not see any ice buildup or blockage around the fill area or chute.
Thanks, when you press and hold the test button on the ice maker (or flip its power arm/switch off and back on), does it make any sound or motion at all during a test cycle?
I haven’t tried running a test cycle on the ice maker yet, cause i am not sure where the test button is on this model.
On your Frigidaire GRSS2652AF, “not making ice but freezer still cold and no visible blockages” usually points to one of a few things rather than something simple like a big ice clog.
Here’s what is most likely going on based on what you’ve described:
-
Ice maker itself not cycling
- Since the mold is dry and empty and you never see it move, the ice maker’s internal motor or control module may not be initiating a harvest cycle.
- On this model, there is a test function, but it’s built into the ice maker head and isn’t obvious at a glance, so it’s normal you haven’t spotted it.
-
No water getting to the ice maker (even though the dispenser works)
- Your water dispenser can still work while the ice maker side of the inlet valve has failed, because the valve has separate solenoids/sections: one for the dispenser, one for the ice maker.
- If the ice section of the valve is faulty or not being energized, the mold will stay dry exactly as you’re seeing.
-
Control/communication issue
- The main control board or ice maker control can sometimes stop sending the “fill” or “harvest” commands even when the rest of the fridge seems fine.
- This can look like a perfectly normal freezer with a dead ice maker that never even tries to run a cycle.
-
Frozen fill tube or intermittent low flow (less likely in your case)
- A partially frozen fill tube can make production taper off over time (like you saw) until it finally stops, but you usually see at least some ice in the mold or a small blockage, which you don’t.
- Because your water pressure at the dispenser seems normal and you don’t see any ice buildup, this is possible but not the top suspect.
-
Ice maker power/enable setting
- This model can have an ice maker on/off setting in the controls in addition to any switch/arm on the assembly itself.
- If that setting or internal switch is off or failed, the unit simply never runs a cycle—no noise, no movement, no water, just what you’re describing.
Given your symptoms—normal freezer temp, good dispenser pressure, dry mold, no visible block—it most often ends up being:
- a failed ice maker assembly, or
- the ice side of the water inlet valve not operating, or
- a control issue preventing the ice maker from cycling.
At this point, the next step is usually to (1) locate the ice maker’s test button, (2) see if the unit responds at all, and (3) if it does, see whether it calls for water; that tells you whether you’re dealing more with an ice maker issue or a water-valve/control issue.