Amana NTW4516FW3 washer — no lights and no power

Hi, I’m Mike, your appliance troubleshooting expert. What’s the exact model number, and when you press Power/Start do any lights or sounds come on, or is it completely dead (top-load or front-load)?

Have you verified the wall outlet has power (tested with a lamp or meter), the breaker/GFCI isn’t tripped, and the washer’s power cord is firmly plugged in with no visible damage?

Can you confirm the outlet is live by testing it with a lamp/phone charger and whether any GFCI outlet on that circuit is tripped?

Thanks—that helps. With a live outlet and a completely dead console on an Amana NTW4516FW3, the fault is almost always inside the washer’s power/control path. Most likely causes (in order):

• Failed main control board: The board in the console powers the lights and buttons; when it dies (often after a surge), the unit appears totally dead.
• Power cord or line filter/harness issue: Open neutral, loose/burned spade at the control, or a failed noise filter can interrupt power to the board.
• User interface/knob (encoder) or console harness failure: Less common, but a broken UI or ribbon/harness can keep the board from “waking.”
• Lid‑lock harness short that damaged the board: A shorted lid lock typically won’t kill all lights by itself, but it can take out the control.
• If equipped, an internal line fuse open: This model usually doesn’t have a user‑serviceable fuse; when present and open, it mimics a dead unit.

Notes and safety:

• Unplug the washer before any inspection; sharp edges and live voltage are a shock hazard. If you smell burning or see scorched connectors, stop and call a technician.
• This symptom is not caused by the motor, drain pump, or shift actuator.

What a tech will do: verify 120 VAC reaching the control, check the cord/EMI filter and console harness for opens or heat damage, then condemn the main control if line power is present but the board won’t power up.

Typical repair outcomes:

• Main control board replacement: common fix; parts roughly $150–$250 plus labor.
• Harness/cord or lid‑lock repair: less costly ($20–$80 parts) if that’s the culprit.

Would you like me to walk you through safe, step‑by‑step checks with a multimeter to narrow this down?