Blaupunkt dishwasher 5VF5X00EWE keeps showing error code 13 - AskHow

Hi, I’m Mike, a home appliance tech—thanks for the model number, that helps a lot.

When the cycle finishes and error 13 appears, is there still a pool of water sitting in the bottom (sump area) and do you hear the drain pump running loudly/continuously just before the error shows?

Has the dishwasher’s filter area and drain sump (under the lower spray arm) been cleaned recently, and is the sink drain/disposal that the machine connects to draining normally?

Does error 13 come up on every program you run and does it appear right near the end of the cycle when it should be doing the final drain? Does the drain hose run up to a high loop or air gap before going to the sink drain, or is it routed low and directly into the drain connection?

Based on what you’ve described, error 13 on this Blaupunkt is almost certainly a drainage fault that the control sees during the final drain, and it keeps repeating on every program because the underlying cause is persistent, not intermittent.

Given:

• It happens at the end of the cycle during final drain
• There’s a pool of water left in the sump
• You hear only a low hum (not a strong, gurgling drain)
• The sink drain is clear and the hose is correctly looped up under the sink

The most likely causes, in order, are:

1. Partial blockage in the dishwasher’s internal drain path

   • Food debris, grease, or foreign objects can sit in the filter area, sump, or internal drain channel just before the pump.
   • This lets a small amount of water through but not enough volume or speed, so the control times out and throws error 13 near the end.

2. Restricted or partially clogged drain hose or sink connection

   • Even with a proper high loop, the hose itself (especially at bends or where it connects to the sink drain) can build up grease and debris.
   • This can cause weak or slow draining, so some water always remains and the machine flags a drain error.

3. Drain pump starting to fail or jam intermittently

   • The low humming you hear suggests the drain pump is energized but not pumping strongly.
   • Common issues: worn impeller, small object stuck in the impeller, or a weak motor.
   • In this case the pump moves some water but not enough to empty within the programmed time, so the control gives error 13.

4. Less common: water-level sensing issue

   • If the sensor that tells the control “the tub is now empty” is fouled with residue, it may report “still water present” even after partial draining.
   • The control then assumes a drain fault and shows error 13.
   • This is less likely than a simple mechanical blockage or weak pump, but it’s still possible.

So, in summary: the problem is almost certainly insufficient drain flow caused by either a clog (filter/sump/hose) or a weak/obstructed drain pump, not an issue with the main wash motor or an electrical supply problem.

If you’d like, I can walk you through safe, step‑by‑step checks to narrow it down between a blockage and a failing drain pump.

Got it, I’ll keep this as simple and safe as possible and stop short of anything “tech‑level.”

Safety first:
Before putting your hands inside the machine or near wiring, turn the dishwasher off at the wall switch or unplug it. If it’s hard‑wired, switch off the circuit breaker.

Step 1 – Clean the filter and sump area (most common cause)

1. Open the door and remove the bottom rack.
2. In the bottom of the tub, you’ll see the filter assembly (usually a cylindrical mesh filter plus a flat screen around it).
3. Twist and lift out the main filter (usually counter‑clockwise to unlock).
4. Rinse the filter under warm water and scrub off food, grease, and sludge with a soft brush or old toothbrush.
5. Under where the filter sat, you’ll see a small well / sump area where water collects.
   • Use a sponge or towel to soak out the standing water so you can see the bottom.
   • Look carefully for food chunks, glass, seeds, labels, bones, etc. and remove anything you can reach.
6. If there’s a flat mesh screen around the filter opening, lift or unclip it (if it’s removable) and rinse it thoroughly as well.
7. Put the screen and filter back securely.

At this point, you’ve cleared the easiest and most common restriction.

Step 2 – Check the drain hose at the sink end

1. Go under the sink and find the dishwasher drain hose (small corrugated plastic hose).
2. Follow it to where it connects:
   • Either to a disposal unit (on the side), or
   • To a branch nipple on the sink’s drain pipe.
3. Make sure the hose is:
   • Not kinked or sharply bent,
   • Not crushed by cleaning supplies or bins.
4. If you feel comfortable:
   • Loosen the clamp where the hose connects to the disposal or drain pipe.
   • Pull the hose off and look into the fitting on the sink/disposal side for greasy buildup or blockage.
   • Also look into the end of the hose you just pulled off; if it’s caked with sludge, wipe/flush it out.
5. Reattach the hose and tighten the clamp securely so it won’t leak.

(If your hose goes to an air‑gap (a small device on top of the sink), pop off the cap and check inside for debris as well.)

Step 3 – Test a short cycle and listen to the drain

1. Restore power to the dishwasher.
2. Run a short program or a “rinse” cycle.
3. When it gets to the drain part (you’ll hear water stop spraying and then a humming/pumping sound):
   • Listen at the sink: do you now hear strong water flow going into the drain?
   • Open the door after it’s finished and see if the water level in the bottom is much lower or gone.

Outcomes:

• If after cleaning, it drains much better and no error 13 appears → the issue was almost certainly blockage in the filter/sump/hose connection, and you’ve fixed it.
• If error 13 still appears and a pool of water remains, but the hose isn’t kinked and the sink entry is clear → the drain pump is likely weak or partially jammed.

Step 4 – When to call a technician

If, after these basic checks:

• There’s still standing water,
• You hear only a weak hum from the bottom of the machine during drain,
• The hose and sink connection look clear,

then the most likely issue is a failing or obstructed drain pump or, more rarely, a sensor/board issue. Replacing the pump usually involves:

• Removing the lower panel or side panel,
• Accessing the pump from underneath,
• Disconnecting wiring and clamps,

which is generally best done by a professional if you’re not handy.