Bosch dishwasher suddenly loses power — display and touchpad not responding

Hi, I’m Mike, your home appliance troubleshooting expert—happy to help. What is the exact Bosch model number, and is the display completely dead (no lights or beeps) or does anything respond at all?

Is it plugged into an outlet you know has power, or is it hardwired into a junction box under the sink/toe-kick?

Is there a wall switch under/near the sink or a GFCI outlet on that circuit, and are they both on/not tripped?

Did the loss of power happen mid-cycle or right after any power surge or under-sink electrical/plumbing work?

Thanks—that helps. Given it’s hardwired, the display is totally dead, and it finished the prior cycle before going dark, the most likely causes (in order) are:

1. Loose/burned wire connection in the dishwasher’s junction box under the toe‑kick. Very common on hardwired installs—an open hot or neutral will make the UI go completely dead.
2. Failed line noise filter/power entry module (EMI filter). When this opens internally, the whole machine loses power even though the breaker is fine.
3. Faulty door latch/microswitch. On some Bosch models the UI won’t wake if the latch switch isn’t closing.
4. Failed power module (main control in the base) that supplies low voltage to the touch panel; if its internal fuse/components fail, the UI stays dark.
5. Broken door harness or failed UI board (less common, but possible).

Safety note: there’s live 120 V in the toe‑kick area—turn the breaker off before anyone opens panels; stop and call a tech immediately if you notice a burnt smell, scorched wire nuts, or a breaker that starts tripping.

Typical repair outlook:

• Loose junction‑box connection or latch switch = quick/low cost.
• EMI filter = moderate cost.
• Power module/UI board = higher cost.

If you’d like, I can guide you through a safe, step‑by‑step diagnosis (starting with the junction box and then the EMI filter, latch, and power module) without guessing parts—want to do that?