KitchenAid KRSC536RPS Ice Maker Not Making Ice — Dispenser Works, Freezer Cold

Hi, I’m Mike, your appliance troubleshooting expert—happy to help. To start, can you confirm the exact brand (that model number is typically KitchenAid) and whether the water dispenser is working normally with good flow?

Do you see any ice cubes or water pooled in the ice mold, and is the ice maker’s power switch turned on?

Has the water filter been replaced in the last six months, and does the refrigerator make any clicking or humming from the ice maker when it should cycle?

What is your actual freezer temperature reading, and do you ever hear a short 3–7-second buzz like a fill valve when the ice maker should be filling?

Thanks—based on what you’ve shared (KitchenAid KRSC536RPS, dispenser good, freezer ~-18 to -17°C/0 to -1°F, no harvest sounds, empty/dry mold), the most likely causes are:

• A non-cycling ice maker module (failed motor/control inside the ice maker so it never harvests or calls for water).
• A stuck or misread door switch or the in-door wiring harness issue that prevents the ice maker from getting power when the door is “seen” as open.
• A frozen fill tube in the freezer door (common on in-door ice makers) due to a weak fill-tube heater or a weeping inlet valve; this blocks water even though the dispenser works, though you’d usually still hear the ice maker try to cycle.
• A failed ice-maker-side water inlet valve (separate from the dispenser side), though typically you’d hear a brief buzz when it’s energized. Given there’s no clicking/harvest noise, I’d rank a failed ice maker module or a door-switch/door-hinge wiring issue above a simple frozen fill tube or valve. A technician would confirm by running the ice maker’s diagnostic harvest test, checking for 120 V to the ice maker during a cycle, verifying the door switch input, inspecting the freezer-door hinge harness for breaks, checking the fill tube for ice, and testing the ice-maker solenoid valve. Safety note: avoid reaching into the mechanism while powered—moving ejector blades can pinch; unplug before any hands-on checks. If you’d like, I can outline simple homeowner checks next.

Sure—here are safe, simple checks you can do without disassembly:

• Verify the exact model/serial from the door frame label and confirm the ice maker’s power switch is firmly ON and the bail arm isn’t wedged by the bin.
• Confirm freezer temperature with a thermometer: target about -18°C (0°F); if it’s warmer than -15°C (5°F), ice production can stop.
• Check the freezer door switch: open the freezer and press the switch—does the light go off reliably every time? Wiggle the door while holding the switch; if the light flickers, the switch or hinge wiring may be flaky (ice maker won’t run if the control thinks the door is open).
• Do a soft control reset: power the fridge off at the wall for 5 minutes, then turn it back on; give the ice maker a few hours to attempt a cycle and listen for harvest/fill sounds.
• Inspect for obvious kinks in the water line behind the fridge and make sure the supply valve is fully open; dispenser flow should remain strong.
• Try a quick fill-tube thaw check: with the unit unplugged, open the freezer door for 30–45 minutes (towels in the bin/chute to catch drips) to see if a small ice plug melts; then restore power and see if it makes a batch within 4–6 hours.
• If you have a spare, try an OEM water filter swap; a partially restricted filter can starve the ice maker even when the dispenser seems okay. What it means:
• If it starts a batch after thawing but later stops again, suspect a weak fill-tube heater or a weeping inlet valve (tech needed).
• If there’s still no harvest sound or water fill after the reset and door-switch check, the ice maker module is likely failed and is typically replaced as an assembly.
• If the freezer light/door switch is inconsistent or the issue changes when moving the door, suspect door switch or hinge wiring, which requires a technician. If you want, tell me what you observe on those checks and I’ll help you decide whether to schedule service or try another safe step.