LG fridge is not working in both compartments. We have only one light on the top compartment. Nothing else is working. I assume its all happend after power surge in our area, cause we noticed before our lights was flickering for a couple of seconds. Model number LRFXS2503S. Is it worth getting fix or get a new fridge?
Hi, I’m Mike, your home appliance troubleshooting expert. When the fridge is plugged in now, is the control panel totally dark and silent, and have you confirmed the wall outlet has power by testing it with another device or checking the breaker?
There is power in the outlet. Control panel has no lights, nothing
When it’s plugged in and you leave the doors open for a minute, does that single interior light stay solid the whole time and do you hear any faint clicks or humming from the back?
As i said, nothing is working, no clicks, only light stays on
Do you smell any burnt‑electronics odor from the back or top hinge area, and is the fridge plugged directly into a standard wall outlet (not a power strip or GFCI)?
I dont smell any burnt odor. Fridge plugged-in, in the standard wall outlet
About how old is this fridge, and do you have any surge protection, homeowners insurance, or a credit card extended warranty that might cover surge damage?
5 years old..
Thanks—based on your LRFXS2503S being totally dead except for a single interior light after a known power surge, the most likely failure is the fridge’s low‑voltage power supply on the main control board (and sometimes the upstream line/noise filter board). Incoming power is clearly present (your light works), but the control electronics that power the display, fans, and compressor are not booting. A failed UI board alone is less likely when everything else is silent.
Is it worth fixing?
- If only the main board is bad: typical total repair cost is about $350–$550 (parts + labor). That’s generally worth fixing on a 5‑year‑old unit.
- If both the main board and the line/noise filter board were surge‑damaged: expect roughly $450–$750.
- If multiple boards or the compressor drive circuitry were taken out: $800+; at that point replacement makes more sense.
Rule of thumb: repair if the quote is under ~40% of a comparable new fridge; replace if it approaches 50%+. For your model class (new ~$1,600–$2,300), a repair under ~$600 is usually sensible.
Coverage to check:
- Homeowners/renters insurance or your utility’s surge‑claim program (document that a surge was involved).
- Any surge protector warranty, if one was used.
- Credit‑card extended warranty likely won’t apply at 5 years, but worth a quick check.
Safety note: if you notice a burnt smell or the breaker trips, unplug and have a technician inspect it.
If you’d like, I can walk you through a couple quick, no‑tools checks to better separate “main board vs. line filter board” before you schedule service.