My washing machine is not working at all.
Hi, I’m Mike, an appliance troubleshooting tech—can you tell me the brand and model of the washer, and what exactly happens when you press Start (no lights, lights but no action, any sounds, etc.)?
It is a Whirlpool top‑load washer and I am not sure of the exact model. When I press Start the lights come on but nothing happens, no water and no real sound.
Do any lights start blinking or does the lid‑lock light come on or stay off when you press Start and close the lid fully?
The lid‑lock light comes on and then just keeps blinking. The other lights stay on solid and the washer still does not start.
When the lid‑lock light is blinking, can you still open the lid freely or do you hear/feel a click like it’s trying to lock the lid?
I can open the lid easily and I do not hear or feel any click at all. The light just blinks and nothing else happens.
Do you see any error code on the display (letters/numbers like “LF,” “LID,” “dL,” etc.), or is it just the blinking lid‑lock light with no other message?
There is no error code on the display, just the lid‑lock light blinking. All the other lights look normal.
Based on what you’ve described, the washer is basically “stuck” in the lid‑lock phase and never sees the lid as safely locked, so it refuses to start the cycle.
Most likely causes, in order of probability:
-
Failed lid lock assembly
- The control is trying to lock the lid (hence the blinking light) but the lock mechanism never actually engages.
- Inside the lid‑lock are a small solenoid and switches that tell the control “lid is locked.” If either of those fails, you get exactly what you’re seeing: blinking lid‑lock, no click, no spin/fill.
-
Broken or misaligned lid strike (the plastic “tab” on the lid)
- There’s usually a small plastic piece on the lid that goes into the lid‑lock when you close it.
- If that strike is cracked, missing, or bent, the lock can’t “see” the lid, so it just keeps blinking and never locks.
-
Wiring issue to the lid lock
- A loose connector or damaged wire between the control board and the lid‑lock can make the control think the lock never engaged.
- This is less common than a bad lock but does happen, especially if the lid has been slammed or the machine moved recently.
-
Control board not recognizing the lock signal
- If the lid lock and wiring are good, the electronic control can sometimes be the culprit.
- This is usually diagnosed only after confirming the lock assembly and wiring check out.
Because the lid doesn’t click or lock and there’s no error code beyond the blinking light, a bad lid‑lock assembly or lid strike is by far the most common root cause.